For the past few years, every fall, from Sado Island, I have been bringing in Quebec a few cases of Jôgen No Tsuki Junmai Daiginjo Namachozo 純米大吟醸 上弦の.
It is an autumn sake produced with all the rice and only the rice from a single organically grown rice paddy, the equivalent of a Single Malt. The amount of Jôgen No Tsuki brewed is directly related to the yield of the rice paddy.
The result of a cooperation between an organic farm and the Kato Shuzoten craft brewery, Junmai Daiginjo Jôgen No Tsuki (First Crescent Moon) is very difficult to obtain, even in Japan.
Last winter, I allowed myself a vertical taste comparison: I opened a bottle from 2023 and one from the previous year of the same delicious sake, tasted, and took notes.
I found it interesting to do this comparison, especially since each year it is a unique sake made without thinking about yield or consistency.
In 2023, climate change made rice growing and sake brewing difficult in Japan, especially on the Sea of Japan side. During the winter, not only did it snow less, it rained a lot. The meltwater sources quickly dried up during the dry summer that followed. Farmers I know complained about it, as did brewmasters; in Moromi, rather than dissolving, the rice tended to absorb water and form a viscous paste.
So, for this sake produced from organically grown rice, I had some apprehensions about the 2023 vintage from the start. On the other hand, in comparison, it benefited from freshness; the other was already a year old.
Verdict:
In both cases, the 50% polished KoshiTanrei generates fruity and refreshing aromas of nashi pear, especially. The creaminess is also present in both sakes, but the impression of sweetness was slightly stronger with the 2023 vintage. Because it is also a little more acidic, the balance in terms of taste is just as perfect. Both have the peppery and even slightly aniseed finish typical of Niigata sakes.
The 2002 offers a richer rice umami, I found, especially when drunk at room temperature.
The Jôgen No Tsuki Junmai Daiginjo Namachozo 2024 is expected in December. I can't wait.
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